This layout is no longer in existence. It was torn out to make way for the new Southview Lines. The layout was built in the garage and located on one wall. It incorporated a folding design so it could be folded up and away when not in use. When folded, the layout only extended 14 inches into the garage, still allowing room to park the car. In the folded position, the layout attached to an overhead shelf which also provided a place to mount flourescent lighting.

Track Plan
The layout measured 16 feet by 42 inches. The track plan was a twice around design. Within this space, I managed to avoid sharp curves only using one tight turn with a radius of 12 inches. The rest of the curves were 14 to 16 inch radius. The layout design included a yard area against the wall which included 5 tracks, each over 8 feet long. The yard area does not fold, so I could store my trains here between running sessions without having to remove them from the layout each time. There were also many opportunities for switching at various points around the layout.

Benchwork
The layout bechwork was built using 1 x 4 wood frames. To fill the area inside the frame, I used 2 inch thick extruded foam board (the blue stuff). This is glued to cleats attached to the inside of the frame. I used latex liquid nails for the glue (won't attack and eat the foam). This is the second layout I've built using foam. So far, I have been very happy with the results. It is very easy to carve out ditches and variations in the "land". It is also easy to add foam to create hills, mountains, etc. I carve the foam using a hot wire cutter that I built. I also use knives, sandpaper, and surfoam tools.

Trackwork
To lay track I use the following method: I first mark the centerline of my track path using a marker directly on the foam. On each side I cut ditches using the hot wire cutter. Between the ditches I glue cork roadbed directly to the foam using white or yellow glue. I temporarily tack the cork in place using straight pins until the glue dries. After this dries, I remove the pins and smooth any irregularities on the surface of the cork using sandpaper. Then I glue my track in place using regular liquid nails spread thin on the cork. I found that the regular liquid nails holds better than the latex kind and can be used here because it is not directly touching the foam. As quickly as possible, I stick the track down adjusting each piece as I go. The track can be temporarily held in place using the same straight pins inserted through the nail holes in the track. After this dries over night, I remove the pins. One note: I do NOT use adhesive under the turnouts. I found the track on either side holds the turnout firmly (plus, it allows you to reuse a turnout if you ever need to or remove it for maintenance). The track is now ready for fine tuning (filing joints or points).

Wiring
I was up to the wiring phase of the layout before deciding to start over. I had soldered feeder wires on to the rails for each electrical block. The feeders are attached to 18 ga lamp cord and routed to the location of the central control panel. The railroad is divided into 13 blocks. With a feeder wire on each rail for positive and negative feeds. There are gaps cut into both rails to define the power blocks, these gaps are filled with a piece of styrene epoxied in and filed to the shape of the rail. I had finished building the control panel and connecting all the wires from the rail feeders. The panel uses DPDT toggles for two throttles. I had planned to wire throttle jacks on both ends of the layout for two walkaround throttles I had planned to build.

Scenery
Scenery was started somewhat. I incorporated into this layout some sections that I had previously built for an Ntrak module. These sections have a little bit of scenery applied to them. They depict how I will add scenery to the rest of the layout. I start by varying the contour of the flat foam board, adding pieces of foam here and there. I then use the shaping tools I mentioned above to smooth down the rough edges of hills and ditches. After I am satisfied with the shape of the ground, I paint the area with an earth-colored latex paint. While the paint is still wet, I sprinkle on sifted dirt or earth colored ground foam (fine). This is followed by various shades of green ground foam (coarse). After this step, I spray the whole area with a water/glue mixture. Then I add pieces of ground foam (clumps) to represent bushes. These are secured with a drop of white glue. I next add trees made from various materials. To plant these, I just put a drop of white glue down where I want the tree and poke the tree into the foam through the glue.