I am in the process of building the Southview Lines in N Scale. The layout is built in the garage (not many basements here in Texas). Located against two walls, the layout is L-shaped and still allows room to park the car. The layout is 16 feet by 7 feet. There is an overhead shelf which provides a place to mount flourescent and dimmable incandescent lighting.

This new layout replaces the old folding layout that I was working on in the past (to see the old layout, click the "Old Layout" button at left). I was not at all happy with the old layout. There were many problems with the way I designed it to fold (joints on curves, too many joints, etc.). I made the decision to trash the old layout and build a new one. I also decided to fix many of the things that I didn't like about the old layout.

The major decisions I made with the new layout are: Atlas code 55 track, Atlas Code 55 turnouts, & go with DCC.

Track Plan
The layout measures 16 feet by 7 feet. The track plan is basically a point to point design but I have made provisions to add a return loop on one end making a single loop for continuous running. The layout design includes a staging area against the wall which includes 5 tracks, each over 8 feet long. The staging area will be partially hidden by a long low hill. There are many opportunities for switching at various points around the layout.


Benchwork
The layout bechwork is built using 1 x 4 wood frames. Instead of buying regular 1 x 4's, I ripped plywood into 3 1/2" wide strips. This resulted in very stable, straight "lumber". After I built the frames, I attached them to the wall and added diagonal supports to eliminate most legs. For the right side of the layout, I did use two legs to support the benchwork. On top of the wooden sub-benchwork I used 2 inch thick extruded foam board. This is glued to cleats attached to the inside of the frame level with the top. I used latex liquid nails for the glue (won't attack and eat the foam). This is the third layout I've built using foam. So far, I have been very happy with the results. It is very easy to carve out ditches and variations in the "land". It is also easy to add foam to create hills, mountains, etc. I carve the foam using a hot wire cutter that I built. I also use knives, sandpaper, and surfoam tools.


Backdrop
My backdrop is vinyl flooring. I went to a Carpet/Tile outlet center and bought a clearance piece of vinyl flooring (make sure is has the paper backing). I then cut it into strips of the right size. Mine are about 40 inches high. These are then mounted to my walls with the back side facing out. I curved it around the corners (the material will support itself). I used roofing nails to secure at the top and bottom and down the edges. Then I used joint compound to fill the joint where two pieces butted up together and sanded this smooth. With the 12 foot length, I only had two seams. I first applied a stain sealer (Kilz II) and then painted with a suitable sky color.

Trackwork
I lay track using the following method: I first mark the centerline of my track path using a marker directly on the foam. On each side I cut ditches using the hot wire cutter. Between the ditches I glue cork roadbed directly to the foam using white or yellow glue. I temporarily tack the cork in place using straight pins until the glue dries. After this dries, I remove the pins and smooth any irregularities on the surface of the cork using sandpaper. Then I glue my track in place using regular liquid nails spread thin on the cork. I found that the regular liquid nails holds better than the latex kind and can be used here because it is not directly touching the foam. (UPDATE: Recently, I have been using Dap Tub & Tile Adhesive instead of the Liquid Nails. It cleans up with water and is much less messy. It seems to hold just as well.) As quickly as possible, I stick the track down adjusting each piece as I go. The track can be temporarily held in place using the same straight pins. After this dries over night, I remove the pins. One note: I do NOT use adhesive under the turnouts. I found the track on either side holds the turnout firmly (plus, it allows you to reuse a turnout if you ever need to or remove it for maintenance). The track is now ready for fine tuning (filing joints, etc.).

Turnout Control
Since I am using Atlas code 55 turnouts, I need to use something to control the turnouts. I chose to manually control them with SPDT slide switches. First I found a slide switch with almost the same throw as the turnout points. Mine were intended to be mounted on PC boards. Since the Atlas turnouts have a metal frog, they can be powered based on the turnout position. The slide switch provides this power routing. The slide switch is mounted next to the turnout by making a hole in the foam and securing the slide switch with tub and tile caulk. Then a piece of music wire ties the slide switch to the turnout throwbar.


Wiring
I have decided to go DCC with this layout. I chose the Lenz Set-90. This will simplify the wiring considerably. Before I attached the foam, I drilled holes in the framework and ran 14ga wire (the same wire for your house electricity) as a bus wire. I ran the wire directly under where my mainline is going to go (or as close as possible). I then installed a 20ga feeder wire on each rail for positive and negative feeds. These were located about every three feet and on all sidings. The goal is to not rely on any rail joiners to conduct power to the next section of rail. Once all feeders were soldered to the rails they were then attached to the bus wiring under the layout.

Scenery
Scenery has started. This is the method I use. I start by varying the contour of the flat foam board, adding pieces of foam here and there. I then use the shaping tools I mentioned above to smooth down the rough edges of hills and ditches. After I am satisfied with the shape of the ground, I paint the area with an earth-colored latex paint. While the paint is still wet, I sprinkle on sifted dirt or earth colored ground foam (fine). This is followed by various shades of green ground foam (coarse). After this step, I spray the whole area with a water/glue mixture. Then I add pieces of ground foam (clumps) to represent bushes. These are secured with a drop of white glue. I next add trees made from various materials. To plant these, I just put a drop of white glue down where I want the tree and poke the tree into the foam through the glue. I am starting the scenery on the leftmost portion of the layout and plan to work my way around the layout finishing at the city area. I am almost finished with the Grain Elevator area and the large bridge crossing. Photo posted soon.